La Maison de l'Aubrac

01What to order

• Côte de bœuf (bone-in rib) in its poêlon, 1 kg / 2.2 lb€110 on the current online menu, a cut for the table.
• Les maturées: entrecôte, côte, faux-filet persillé or onglet, by weight€18 to €19 per 100 g / 3.5 oz; at least 300 g / 11 oz for the entrecôte and the faux-filet, 1 kg / 2.2 lb for the côte and 200 g / 7 oz for the onglet.
• Entrecôte bien persillée (rib-eye), 350 g / 12 oz€42 on the regular list; the 300 g / 11 oz faux-filet (sirloin) is €34 and the 180 g / 6.5 oz filet €39.
• Belle bavette (flank), 200 g / 7 oz€26, the lowest-priced steak on the menu.
• Wagyu entrecôte or faux-filet€45 per 100 g / 3.5 oz, 350 g / 12 oz minimum. The menu does not say where the wagyu comes from.
• Aligot on the sideOne of five sides, with chips, salad, gratin and sautéed vegetables; pepper or bleu d'Auvergne sauce is €3 extra.

02The beef

The breed is in the name: Aubrac, the cattle of the Massif Central plateau, and the house works with its own family farm. A direct-sale blog for the farm places it at Laguiole, 1,000 meters up, and describes a fully plant-based diet with no GMOs, hay in winter, calves kept with their mothers until weaning at seven to eight months, and cereal supplements only for young males and heifers. In 2012 Slate reported freshly milled cereals and linseed cake, slaughter at the Limoges abattoir by conventional, non-halal methods, and aging of three to five weeks at 2 °C. Today the restaurant says only "several weeks." The menu does not give the breed of each cut, and the wagyu is a different breed. The number: 2 °C.

03The fire

No source names the grill, the fuel or the cooking method. The menu only says the côte comes in its poêlon.

04The story

Christian Valette has raised cattle at Laguiole since 1979, according to Lesrestos, and the farm's blog counts four generations of Valettes on the same land over about 120 years. In May 2011 Gilles Pudlowski saw rib steaks aged "three weeks and more" in the ground-floor window, and an entrecôte at €40.50. In 2012 Slate counted 140,000 guests a year. In 2013 Time Out listed the house as open 24 hours a day. The dining room was redone in 2015, with wooden furniture, colored banquettes and a large glass cabinet showing the cuts. No source read by Steakpedia gives the year the restaurant opened.

05The practical

37 rue Marbeuf, 75008 (metro Franklin D. Roosevelt). Open every day from 12:00: until 01:00 on Monday, Tuesday and Sunday, until 06:00 on Wednesday and until 07:15 from Thursday to Saturday. Phone 01 43 59 05 14; bookings online through Zenchef. There is a terrace from May and a private room, and the house takes groups.

Address

37 Rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris

Phone

+33 1 43 59 05 14

Website

maison-aubrac.com

Directions

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