The Devonshire

01What to order

• T-bone or beef chop£13 per 100 g / 3.5 oz on the handwritten menu on the house's website (undated), sold by weight for the table.
• Ribeye, 12 oz£42 on the same menu.
• Grass-fed wagyu ribeye, 12 oz£54; the menu gives no country for the wagyu.
• Fillet, 9 oz£46.
• Beef cheek and Guinness suet pudding£28; a dish from the kitchen rather than the grill.
• Set menu with skirt steakPrawn and langoustine cocktail, skirt steak with duck fat chips and béarnaise, then sticky toffee pudding: £25 for two courses, £29 for three.

02The beef

The breed is Aberdeen Angus for most of the beef, per QMS, and the farms are in Strichen, where Jim Fowlie works about 2,000 acres. The house itself describes it only as Scottish beef, dry-aged and butchered on site; at opening the cutting room was run by head butcher George Donnelly. No source gives the number of days in the chamber, or says whether the cattle were finished on grass or grain. The wagyu ribeye on the menu is marked grass-fed, without a country. Sauces cost £3 each: béarnaise, hollandaise, peppercorn and green sauce. The number: about 2,000 acres.

03The fire

The grill burns wood down to embers. Palmer-Watts told Hot Dinners in 2023 that it is far more challenging to cook over wood embers than over charcoal; QMS described it as the first wood ember grill of its kind in the country. It stands at the back of the first-floor dining room.

04The story

Rogers and Carroll announced the project in June 2023 for the former Coqbull site on Denman Street, a building that has traded as an inn since 1793, per Restaurant Online. Rogers had previously run The Guinea in Mayfair. Palmer-Watts, the third co-founder, began work on the menu in February 2023, and Jamie Guy, formerly Mark Hix's right-hand man, was head chef at opening. The pub opened in autumn 2023 and, Hot Dinners reported, ran out of Guinness before its official opening; Carroll told QMS the grill room had opened at the end of November. A second dining floor, private rooms and a roof terrace followed.

05The practical

17 Denman Street, Soho, W1D 7HW, behind Piccadilly Circus. The pub opens Monday to Saturday 11:00–23:00 and Sunday 11:00–22:00; the kitchen seats from 12:00, with the last sitting at 22:00 (Sunday 21:00). Sunday lunch, 12:00–16:00, is the Sunday menu only. Restaurant bookings open every Thursday at 10:30, three weeks ahead; the pub and the roof are walk-in only, and there is no waiting list. Groups of 8 to 14 book the feasting menu; four private rooms take up to 60. No phone number is published; use enquiries@devonshiresoho.co.uk. An optional 12.5% service charge is added.

Address

17 Denman Street, Soho, London W1D 7HW

Website

devonshiresoho.co.uk

Directions

Google Maps ↗

06In London’s selections