Cut · Head, the chewing muscle
Beef cheek
Beef cheek is the masseter, the muscle that closes the jaw: two per animal, 250–450 g each once trimmed. The animal chews for hours a day, so the muscle is laced with collagen — tough when cooked fast, but braised for three to four hours it turns soft enough to cut with a spoon, as in Mexican barbacoa de cachete, Spanish carrillada and French joue de bœuf.
At a glance
- Muscle
- Masseter (the main chewing muscle)
- Weight
- About 250–450 g / 9–16 oz each, trimmed; two per animal
- Character
- Very rich in collagen; turns soft and gelatinous
- Best cooked
- Braised 3–4 hours
A muscle that never rests
The cheek is the masseter, the muscle that closes the jaw. Cattle spend a large part of each day eating and chewing the cud, so the masseter works almost without rest. The result is a compact, dark-red muscle crossed in many directions by connective tissue, with a covering of tough silverskin on the outside.
That structure gives it two lives. Cooked quickly it is tough and rubbery. Cooked slowly in liquid, the collagen inside it melts into gelatin, the fibres separate, and the meat becomes so tender it can be cut with a spoon, while staying moist and glossy. Many cooks consider it one of the best braising cuts, because the gelatin stays inside the meat rather than leaving it in the sauce.
Each animal has two cheeks, and after trimming each weighs about 250–450 g (9–16 oz), which makes a natural single portion.
From the head, under its silverskin
The cheeks are cut from the head after slaughter, along with the tongue and other head meat, and are classed as variety meats. They are sold whole, usually trimmed of the outer fat and with or without the silverskin. In the United States much cheek meat goes into the head-meat trimmings used in processing, so whole cheeks can be hard to find at retail; in Spain, France, Italy and Mexico they are a common butcher's item.
If the silverskin is still on, it is removed with a thin knife before cooking, working the blade under the membrane as with a tenderloin. A thin seam of connective tissue that runs through the centre is left in, because it melts during cooking.
Cooking it: a three- to four-hour braise
The standard method is a braise: the cheeks are seasoned, browned well, then cooked covered in wine or stock with aromatics at about 150–160 °C / 300–320 °F, or at a bare simmer, for three to four hours, until a skewer meets no resistance. The internal temperature at that point is typically above 90 °C / 194 °F. Left to cool in the liquid, they reabsorb moisture and are easier to handle; the reduced cooking liquid becomes the sauce.
In Mexico, barbacoa de cachete is cheek meat cooked slowly until it shreds, traditionally wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in an underground pit, today often steamed; it is one of the meats of barbacoa, eaten in tacos with onion, coriander and salsa. In northern Mexico and Texas, barbacoa was traditionally made from a whole steamed head, and cheek is the prized part.
In Spain, carrillada or carrilleras of beef is braised with red wine and vegetables until the sauce is dark and thick; Iberian pork cheeks are cooked the same way and are even more common. In France, joue de bœuf is braised in red wine in the manner of bœuf bourguignon, and in Italy guancia di manzo brasata is braised in red wine and served with polenta or mashed potato. In Vietnam cheek (má bò) is less common but is used in stews and in hot pot.
Cheeks also respond well to sous vide, cooked for many hours at about 68–80 °C / 154–176 °F, which keeps them in one piece; and to smoking followed by wrapping, in the manner of brisket.
Buy it by weight, not by the piece
Look for whole cheeks of even shape and deep red colour, with the outer fat already removed. Silverskin left on means more trimming at home, and a trimmed cheek loses roughly 20–30 % of its weight in cooking. Fresh cheeks keep one to two days in the refrigerator and freeze well. Because they are sold in a range of sizes, buying by weight, about 250–300 g raw trimmed per portion, is more reliable than counting pieces.
Names around the world
15
The same muscle, named by language and by trade system.
| English | Beef cheek · ox cheek |
| Español | Carrillada · cachete |
| Tiếng Việt | Má bò |
| Português | Bochecha |
| Français | Joue de bœuf |
| Italiano | Guancia di manzo |
| 日本語 | ほほ肉 |
All the cuts' names, country by country →
Trade and national systems
| System | Name | Reference |
|---|---|---|
| United States | Beef cheek meat (head meat) | IMPS Series 700 |
| United Kingdom | Ox cheek | AHDB |
| Australia / NZ | Cheek meat | HAM |
| Argentina | Quijada · cachete | IPCVA |
| Mexico | Cachete (de res) | — |
| Spain | Carrillada · carrillera | — |
| France | Joue de bœuf | Larousse |
| Japan | ほほ肉 (hoho-niku) | JMGA |
Frequently asked questions
What is beef cheek?
The masseter, the jaw muscle used for chewing. It is rich in collagen and is braised for hours until it is soft and gelatinous.
How long do beef cheeks take to cook?
About three to four hours of braising at around 150–160 °C / 300–320 °F, until a skewer slides in with no resistance.
What is barbacoa de cachete?
Mexican barbacoa made with beef cheek, slow-cooked or steamed until it shreds and served in tacos. Cheek is one of the most valued meats for barbacoa.
Do you need to remove the silverskin from beef cheeks?
Yes. The outer membrane stays tough even after braising, so it is trimmed off with a thin knife; the connective tissue inside the cheek is left because it melts.
Sources
4
- McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, rev. ed. New York: Scribner, 2004.
- Larousse Gastronomique, rev. ed. London: Hamlyn, 2009.
- Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (UK). Beef Meat Purchasing Guide. Kenilworth, 2016. ahdb.org.uk
- Toldrá, Fidel (ed.). Lawrie's Meat Science, 8th ed. Duxford: Woodhead, 2017.
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